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Characteristics that Determine the Quality of a Diamond
Cut
Cut (often confused with simply shape) is the only element
of a diamond relying on human ability. The way a diamond
is cut and polished is vital to how the diamond refracts
and reflects light. When a diamond is cut to good proportions,
light is reflected from one facet to another and dispersed
through the top of the stone, resulting in a brilliant display
of fire and sparkle. If a diamond is cut too deep or too
shallow, light escapes through the side or bottom before
it can be reflected. A poorly cut diamond is, therefore,
less brilliant and less valuable than well cut diamonds.
Diamonds are cut into many shapes depending on the nature
of the rough stone. The most popular are round brilliant,
marquise, oval, princess, pear, heart, and emerald.
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Color
Why does color in diamonds vary? In the chaos of extreme
temperature and pressure that first created diamonds, traces
of elements such as nitrogen and boron could have become
part of the diamonds atomic structure altering the diamonds
color or lack of it. Diamonds are graded by color on a scale
of "D" through "Z", with D being totally colorless and very
rare and Z representing light yellow. While many diamonds
appear colorless to the untrained eye, the majority have
slight traces of yellow or brown tones. Generally, the higher
the color grade of the diamond, the more rare and, therefore,
valuable the diamond. "Fancy" diamonds, those of very well
defined colors including pinks, blues, reds, greens and
canary yellow are particularly rare and highly prized.
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Clarity
Flawless diamonds are highly treasured for their extreme
rarity and beauty. Most diamonds contain small flaws known
as inclusions. Inclusions, better described as nature' s
fingerprints, may look like tiny crystals, clouds or feathers.
These could be due to minute traces of other minerals trapped
during the crystallization process. Under a 10 power magnifying
loupe or microscope diamonds are graded on a clarity scale
from VVS1 to I3. (See chart below) The number, color, nature,
size and position of any inclusions determines the clarity
of a diamond. Obviously, the fewer and smaller the inclusions
are, the rarer a diamond will be graded. Major inclusions
can interfere with the path of light that travels through
a diamond, diminishing its brilliance.
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| VVS |
VVS1
- Very very small internal characteristic(s), very hard
to find with a 10x loupe.
VVS2
- The size, position and number of the internal characteristics
determine the distinction between vvs1 and vvs2.
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| VS |
VS1
- Very small internal characteristic(s), which can be
found fairly hard with a 10x loupe.
VS2
- The size, position and number of the internal characteristics
determine the distinction between vs1 and vs2.
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| SI |
SI1
- Small internal characteristic(s), easy to find with
a 10x loupe.
SI2
- The size, position and number of the internal
characteristics determine the distinction between
a si1 and si2.
I1
- Internal characteristic(s), which can hardly be
found with the naked eye through the crown side of
the diamond.
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| IMP |
I2
- Large and / or frequent internal characteristic(s),
easily visible to the naked eye and which reduce(s)
the brilliancy of the diamond slightly.
I3
- Large and / or frequent internal characteristic(s),
very easy to be seen with the naked eye and which
reduce(s) the brilliancy of the diamond.
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Carat
Weight
Diamonds are measured in carats, one carat equal to 100
points. A .50 carat diamond is the same as a 50 point diamond
or a 1/2 carat stone. Since carat is a measure of weight,
once a diamond is in a setting, it is only possible to estimate
its weight by using special gauges and formulae. Two diamonds
of equal weight can have very unequal value depending on
their cut, color, and clarity. So bigger isn't always better.
Although size does increase the value of a good quality
diamond for the simple fact that large stones are rarer
than small ones. A large stone has little value if it has
a low color and clarity grade and a poor cut.
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